Having been on a couple of Kaimanawa Range trips to view wild horses, watched all the video footage and documentaries about Kaimanawa horses in the wild and spent a lot of time with Kaimanawa horses, I thought I knew them pretty well and had a good understanding and appreciation for where and how they live. How wrong I was!
My recent education began with a phone call from Marilyn Jenks who had been invited to camp on Maori land in the Kaimanawa Ranges for 4 days after Christmas. Mike Richardson had contacted Marilyn to invite her and Elder to see "real" wild horses and experience their environment for themselves. Thankfully, Elder chose to hold the fort at home and Marilyn very generously offered his place in the party to me. Neither Marilyn or myself knew quite what to expect as Mike is a seasoned tramper in the area and we knew there would be none of the home comforts we are used to. We were a bit dubious about "tramping" as neither of us is known for a love of exercise and our fitness level leaves a lot to be desired but even so, we did know that this would be far to good an opportunity to miss. So armed with a brand new pair of tramping boots, a lot of warm clothing and enough food to feed a small African nation, I packed up the car and left my family on Christmas night to begin my adventure.
Marilyn & I were too excited to sleep so we bounced out of bed at 2.30am on Boxing Day to begin our drive to Waiouru to meet the rest of our intrepid party. After a welcome latte at Waiouru, we completed the necessary paperwork at the Army Camp and drove through the familiar Army land to the end of the gravel road where the real journey began. We had seen a few horses on the way up but certainly not the number expected. All that we saw were in good condition and we were pleased to note the lush grass throughout the Home Range and the Argo Valley.
We soon began the bumpy ride down the four wheel drive track into Big Valley and onto Maori land where we set up camp next to one of the many picturesque streams that meander their way through the tussock. Some of the locals were obviously not impressed with their new guests as we were under the watchful gaze of a couple of wild horses for most of the first night. These horses are quite different to those living on the Army land in that they very rarely ever get to see humans so are quite curious and will readily come forward to investigate before running away to a safe distance.
After setting up camp, we had just enough daylight to take a short walk into the next valley to see what horses may be lurking. We were very fortunate to surprise a small band with a foal among them just as we broached the ridge. The stallion rushed forward snorting and full of bravado just long enough to allow his family to retreat along the track into the undergrowth before he too lost his nerve and hightailed it after them. This encounter was certainly enough to whet the appetite and leave me very much looking forward to exploring further the next day.
We rose bright and early on Saturday morning and I dressed appropriately in anticipation of the tramp to come. I at least looked prepared even if I didn't feel it! We tramped for a couple of hours through the next valley where we passed two bands of horses, one of which was very large with a total of 11 horses including 3 foals. We then proceeded up through the saddle at the end of the valley where we stopped to regroup and in the case of Marilyn and myself, recover. The weather was absolutely stunning with blue sky and warm sun. All I can think is that I must have been feeling the effects of this when I decided to carry on up to Motumatai with the "fit" people rather than return to the relative ease of the valley floor to view the horses there. After tramping steadily upward for another two hours, looking down on Marilyn, Kim and 4 year old Erica sauntering their way through the tussock surrounded by bands of horses, I was beginning to think I may have been a little hasty in my decision and a lot delusional with regard to my perceived stamina. After many stops to catch my breath and one to patch a developing blister, I made it to the top...of the first ridge anyway! All of a sudden, all of my doubts and fatigue dissolved as the most spectacular scenery overwhelmed me. Within seconds I understood what drives these people to punish their bodies so and why Mike is so passionate about this incredible paradise and it's inhabitants. I was definitely compelled to carry on the next climb up to Batley's Hut for another "fix" of this stunning expanse laid before me! I knew it could only get better the higher we climbed and I was well rewarded by the magnificent plateau and beech forest at the base of the final ascent to Motumatai. There were a number of horses sleeping and grazing peacefully in the shade of the beech trees and although we did our best not to disturb them too much, our presence was broadcast to all and they fled out through the thick tussock onto the plateau and away into the distance where they regrouped and resumed grazing.
I managed to tackle the final leg to the trig located 1420m high at the top of Motumatai to be rewarded with even more spectacular scenery and a bird's eye view of the bands of horses in the valleys below. Having given the camera a good workout and taken yet another necessary rest, we began the steep descent straight down the side of Motumatai onto another large plateau adjacent to the valley we'd left earlier that morning. As a confirmed sufferer of vertigo, I can categorically confirm that this descent was certainly not for the fainthearted! I was very reluctant to follow this route but was left with little choice as the rest of the party disappeared over the edge at a rapid pace. This was probably good in hindsight as it took all my concentration to stay on my feet so I had little time to worry about my fear of heights. Just as I was feeling a little more confident halfway down the mountain, two horses came crashing down behind us at rapid speed. Something had obviously startled them from above or they may have just got wind of our presence and were confused about where we actually were, either way, another two strides and they would have squashed us flat! After our initial mutual surprise, the two young stallions careered off past us down the hill and we were left elated at being so close to wild horses.
We proceeded on past where Mike & Kim usually camp among the trees when they helicopter in and past several bands of horses on the home stretch back to camp. We were very pleased to find that Marilyn & Kim had already prepared dinner and after a quick wash in the icy mountain water, I collapsed into a chair to enjoy the welcome feast.
My poor knees had gone into shock from Saturday's effort and ballooned to twice their normal size which made walking on Sunday a rather painful experience, even though we were sticking mainly to the relatively flat valley floor where we could hide among the bushes and sneak up on horses for closer photos. It was a great opportunity to observe the interaction of horses with members of their own band and with other bands as they collided territories when our cover was blown. We tried to avoid this as much as possible of course as we didn't want to be the catalyst for altercations between stallions and potential injury to frightened horses. I hobbled back to camp and Marilyn came to my rescue with a Voltaren which did the trick.
Monday was a sad day as this was our final day in wild horse paradise. After a huge breakfast, I hesitantly took up Mike's offer of a relatively "flat and easy" walk through to the Rangitikei River. It was only 4 hours there and back and I had done 9 hours on Saturday and survived so I was sure that I'd cope on gently undulating horse tracks through the gorge. I bludged another Voltaren from Marilyn (just in case) and set out feeling newly fit and confident in my life saving, new boots. We left Big Valley and followed the river up the gorge for awhile and then Mike advised that there was a nasty gut around the corner so we would be better to go up to the ridge above and see if we could see a route around it. So, the vertigo kicked in again and I scrambled my way up to the top. We managed to find a slightly saner horse track around the top of the gut and came out at the edge of a huge, flat plateau that is mostly Army land and is the area in which they are going to shoot horses. I was amazed at the thick clover generously interspersed with tussock, I hadn't seen such lush grass anywhere else on the block. We found a single fat, glossy stallion grazing the new grass in a steep gully. Mike decided to take a few photos of him on the way home as we knew we were pressed for time to get to the river and back in time to pack up and leave. After a few more hill, gully and stream crossings, all the while following the well trodden tracks of horses, we arrived on the ridge overlooking the junction of the stream from Big Valley and the Rangitikei River. After admiring even more spectacular scenery for awhile and taking a few snapshots, we headed for home, mindful of the time away. I was absolutely dreading the thought that we might take the same route home and all I could think about was my fear of going down being greater than my fear of coming up! I must have sounded pretty pitiful as Mike took my obvious hints and found an alternate route which was not only flatter but much easier tracks than we'd traversed before. We descended down the side of the mountain (it was probably just a large hill) and caught up with the chubby stallion munching his way a little further down the gully from where we'd seen him earlier. After a lot of skulking around the rocks and tussock, Mike dropped quietly down into the creek bed and followed it down closer to the horse while I observed from my hiding place among the rocks on the ridge above. He managed to get up on the bank on the other side of the creek and get very close to the stallion before he spotted him and took off in alarm. True to form, he came straight back for a closer look and posed majestically among the rocks and tussock while Mike clicked away with the camera. This didn't last long as he snorted and took off back up the ridge and off across the grassy plateau. Mike managed to get some fantastic shots of him so it was mission accomplished and we hurried back.
These horses were obviously not at all used to any intrusion in their environment and I couldn't help thinking how peaceful their existence must be under normal circumstances. It also brought home just how stressful the muster process is on the horses, albeit more used to people, in the Army land. They don't have the usual predator stress to deal with that most wild prey animals experience so they are mentally ill-equipped to deal with even the slightest stress let alone being chased by helicopters and herded by man. The fact that these horses are able to adjust to domestication at all is truly remarkable to me and highlights how little importance we really place on the mental wellbeing of these animals when they come into our care. I feel very sad when I think of the home we have deprived them of in order to spare their lives. I do wonder if it is a fair trade from the horses' point of view at all.
I was absolutely amazed at the number of clear tracks made by horses in all terrain and at all altitudes. These horses are obviously very well adapted to their environment and are able to travel places that would intimidate the bravest, most surefooted domestic horse. I knew Kaimanawa horses were remarkable in their adaptation but I now have a whole new appreciation for them and their incredible environment. I was fortunate to see Oruamatua at it's best; in summer sun with lush grass but I have no doubt that this is a very challenging and harsh place to live in winter. The winds whip through the valleys with such ferocity that we were often hard pressed just to stay upright and I can only imagine what this might be like with snow and icy temperatures thrown in as well.
I am truly indebted to those who gave me the opportunity to share this experience with them. It will be well remembered for a lifetime!
Simone Frewin 2004
